The Latinized Kitchen
La Dispensa Italiana - The Italian Pantry
Italian Recipes Latinize-It
The Latinized Kitchen:
Open your pantry, your cupboard, your refrigerator, and what do you see? When was the last time you noticed the expiration date on that BBQ sauce? And while that sweet chili sauce seemed like a good addition to your collection, you have not used it because once you opened it, it tasted artificial.
I say get rid of all that is there that you havent used in the last few months. If you havent used it, you are not going to. Spring clean your kitchen and renew it with things you will use.
Lets take a look at condiments- say ketchup. Dont mention it I know. I too love Heinz ketchup. But look at the ingredients and what do you see? High fructose corn syrup? Take a look at each of your bottles and look out for these ingredients: high fructose corn syrup, MSG, anything that sounds like a chemistry project, like cellulose, xanthan gum, Calcium Propionate, Ethylated Diglycerides, or ammonium sulfate. I say toss them. You will not find those ingredients in your spice rack because most of the times, they are 100% natural.
Talking about spice rack or spice drawer, when was the last time you used that Tuscan Herb mix? Two winters ago? How about that pork rub? Herbs, rubs, spices, tend to lose their taste after they have been opened. Throw those away too and start anew, it is spring, isnt it?
The Latinized kitchen is equipped with few things. Less is more. I often say at my cooking class that I grew up during a time where mothers or heads of household, in Colombia, purchased their food in more than one location. It wasnt unusual for my mother to buy the papaya from the fruit peddler in the corner of the street where we lived, while the meat came from the butcher, the bread from the bakery, and the produce from the city market, where she went every Tuesday.
We didnt own a large refrigerator or freezer, and our pantry was mostly filled with dried goods like beans, rice, grains, flour, and such. In a way, we lived a la very old world. But those old worlds are source of inspiration today.
In his book, Food Rules, Michael Pollan encourages us to eat food that our great-grandmothers, or grandmothers, depending on your age, would recognize. Skip the swirly peanut butter and jam, the chocolate covered pretzels and the instant mashed potatoes. Instead buy and eat foods that are fresh. Breads that will mold, fruit and vegetables that will rot, and meats that will spoil. In other words, buy food that has not been altered to extend its shelf life or modify its taste.
What cuisine is your favorite? It isnt surprising to find out that the most popular cuisine in the United States is Italian, followed by Chinese and Mexican. So, for this issue of Claudias Mesa, we will focus on Latinizing your kitchen a la Italiana.
When I ask people to name the first five Italian dishes that come to mind, I often hear the following, Pizza, spaghetti and meatballs, lasagna, chicken and eggplant parmesan. Why? Because these were typical dishes from the poorest regions of the south, like Napoli, whose migrants settled in northeastern United States, like Boston and New City in the 1800s. This Italian cuisine was considered provincial. It was the French that claimed to be gourmand until 1980s when the Northern Italian cuisine became trendy. Trattorias serving gnocchi and risotto where the new place to go, leaving the spaghetti and meatballs crowd behind.
Italian cuisine today has taken a more general approach focusing on the entire country and its diverse regions. Larger metropolitan cities like Boston are hosts of restaurants from places like Mergo, Corleone, Sicily, Modena and Milano, highlighting each region or cooking authenticity. Today one can find more genuine Italian foods than ever before, even here in Bozeman.
From fragrant infused olive oils to Vialone Nano rice from Piedmont, to San Marzano tomatoes, and fresh cheeses, one can select, purchase, and prepare, true Italian dishes. It will take some investigation, a nice paycheck to pay for the ingredients and the wine, and maybe a couple of good friends that will appreciate your efforts. I highly recommend Olivelle, Joes Parkway, All Things Italian, and your local Town and Country Market for the purchasing of your gourmet items.
For our everyday fare, Latinize-It offers you other possibilities that you can prepare with fresh produce, a well-stocked herb and spices drawer and pantry.
La Dispensa Italiana- The Italian Pantry:
A few basic ingredients are key to Italian Cuisine. Fortunately, most of them are ready available in your supermarket, while the more epicurean ones can be purchased in any of the above local specialty stores.
Amaretto- almonds: Perfect for desserts, salads, and sauces. Remove from the bag and store in a mason jar. If you buy in large quantities, freeze as they have a tendency to become rancid.
Anchovies- These little guys are wonderful by themselves though Italians, especially Southern Italians, use them in sauces, salads and antipasto. Usually good in small quantities, so once you open a can, remove what you need, and keep the remaining in the salted water they come in. Cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator. They will last for over 2 weeks.
Basil- A powerful herb and part of the mint family, basil can be purple, small or large leaf. Liguria is the cradle of the well-known pesto. When cooking, use only the leaves as the stems tend to be bitter. Italians feel that dried basil is a waste of money as it actually becomes something else, and if you are desperate and cannot find fresh basil, to combie fresh mint and a bay leaf to impart the idea of basil in your dish!
Bay Leaf- Bay leaves are critical to stews, marinades and some soups. Its robust flavor adds a wonderful depth to your dishes. Here in America, California seems to be the ideal location for its growth.
Fagioli, Beans- There are many types of beans used in Italian cuisine, but mainly kidney, cannellini, or northern white, fava, and navy beans. What would minestrone and pasta fagioli be without our friends? They last forever dried and with the new birth of pressure cookers, you can make one of these great soups in a matter of minutes!
Capers- These pungent little buds grow in the shrubs in Italy. They go back in time to Caesar and Rome. Capers are indispensable to dishes like capponatas, puttanesca, and other robust sauces and stews.
Chick Peas- More commonly used in the south, these tasty and meaty peas are wonderful in soups, salads, and pureed.
Fennel, finocchio- Besides the great use found in the seeds for making sausages, they pair with fish or sauted shrimp. In Italy, one does not strain the seeds from the dish, so keep the tradition alive! As far as the bulb, use it fresh in salads, combine it with your potatoes and mash, or simply eat as part of your antipasto. It is refreshing and crunchy.
Garlic- A must for Italian cuisine. Italians eat it raw, cooked, roasted and smoked! Chopped raw garlic goes on top of Pasta Ericina, a cold sauce of tomatoes, plenty of chopped basil, olive oil, salt and pepper. Here in America we may call it Pasta Salad. Garlic is best stored out of the refrigerator, uncovered, in a basket or bowl.
Olives- Olives grow everywhere in Italy. The average age of the trees range from three hundred to six hundred years old. They do not begin to give fruit until they are at least twenty five. Italians treat green and black olives by leaving them whole, or slightly crushing them, and they do not look or taste like anything you would buy in the grocery stores.
Olive Oil- My mothers ancestors came from Lucca, a beautiful town in the Tuscan region of Italy, known for its olive oil. Years back, while visiting Italy with my husband, I fell in love with Lucca and promised myself to come back whenever we had a child. Well, we have a twenty year old, ready to go venture to her ancestors heritage as her fathers side of the family also has Italian heritage from the Marches region and Genoa. But back to olive oil, the best oil comes from the ripe olives that are loaded with their own juices. It is very important that the olives be picked from the vine and not from the ground. The picked olives are then crushed under a giant stone wheel in a trough. This is cold pressed. The juices are then collected in a large vat, pressed again, and then filtered. Most of the olive oil we purchase at the grocery store has been overly processed. You can find better quality oils in places like Olivelle. I promise you, a trip to Olivelle, and you are hooked for life!
Oregano- This herb is used predominantly in Southern Italian cuisine, followed by basil. Imagine pizza without oregano. While the best oregano comes from Greece, one can find top quality oregano in Napoli.
Parmesan- Made from cows milk, parmesan is a must in Italian cooking. If possible, shy away from big label brands, and purchase by the block. Shave, shred or julienne as needed, and store in the refrigerator.
Pasta- Manufactured pasta, whether Italian or American made, can be healthy. Do look for ingredients like durum semolina and water. Shy away from store made brands and go for the well-known Italian named, like Barilla. If you go to gourmet stores you will find fancier brands made in Italy. While the ingredients may be the same as their American counterparts, they are made better and will taste better.
Pepper- Pepper should be in any pantry and fresh ground pepper will taste better than store bought ground pepper. Black pepper is preferred in Italy over white, which happens to be hotter.
Red Pepper Flakes- Go to any southern Italian restaurant and what do you find already set on the table? Parmesan, red pepper flakes and pepper, right? Red pepper flakes gives any dish a great finishing jolt and its spice awakes your taste buds.
Rice or Riso- Arborio is the standard Italian rice used in risottos. Risottos are commonly served in the north, though the south is also known for its risotto di mare, made with seafood and wine. Croquettes are often made with the left over risottos as Supli al telefono, stuffed with mozzarella, or arancine, made with tomato sauce and saffron, and stuffed with pork or chicken.
Rosemary- Native to the Mediterranean, it derives its name from rosmarino, or ocean dew. It goes great with potatoes, garlic, and roasts. Many people infuse their olive oil with rosemary and use it as a finishing touch to their rice, fish or chicken.
Tomatoes- Quality tomatoes are key to Italian cuisine. For people like us living in Montana, they are a luxury. With our short growing season it is hard to maintain a good supply in our pantries and refrigerators. Take advantage of your summer farmers market, and purchase large quantities. Make your marinaras and freeze for your year round consumption. Otherwise, when using tomatoes for cooking, spend a little more and buy quality, especially from the Sand Marzano region. If you cannot find it locally, shop online. Tomato paste is also key, but try not to over do it.
Vinegar- Aceto is key to Italian salads. Aceto balsamico, comes from the region of Modena, where my husbands cousin Roberto, lives. We truly enjoyed ourselves eating in the many restaurants and savoring balsamic vinegars that were aged over fifteen years! White balsamic vinegar tends to be less robust than its counterpart, and can be used when you want the oil or the vegetables to be the stars of the show.
Vino- Needless to say that wine is not only necessary for eating a la Italiano, but also cooking a la Italiano. I know you have heard it before, never cook with a wine you wouldnt drink.
RECIPES: Italian Recipes- Latinize-It
Risotto Coi Finocchi \ Risotto with fennel
Serves 6 as a primer piati
Always use Arborio when making risotto. It is creamier than long grain rice. Soups, pasta and rice dishes are often served as first courses, followed by the Segundo piati, which is a protein and vegetable, ending with insalata or salad to cleanse the palate.
Ingredients
2 medium fennel bulbs can beef broth diluted with 41/4 cup water
cup chopped white onion 2 tbsp. chopped parsley
5 tbsp. avocado oil 1 tbsp. rosa maria dipper
Mediterranean salt 2/3 cup parmigiano
1 cups Arborio rice Just pepper in a grinder
cup dry white wine
1. Cut and discard the tops down to the bulb. With a mandolin, slice bulbs very thin. Rinse and set aside.
2. Put the chopped onion and 2 tbsp. of avocado oil in a heavy pot where you will cook the rice. Turn heat to medium.
3. Brown onion and add fennel. Stir well. Add the water to cover the pot and cook stirring occasionally.
4. Uncover the pot and allow water to evaporate. Add salt and stir. Add rice. Stir well to coat the rice; turn the rice to medium high heat and add wine.
5. In another pan, bring the broth to a simmer and add the rosa maria dipper.
6. Stir the rice constantly. This makes a creamy risotto. When the wine evaporates, add a ladle of broth at a time until you have used it all up. The consistency should be firm and tender.
7. Off the heat, add the remaining avocado oil, salt, parsley and grated cheese. Grind pepper and serve.
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Teglia di Cozze, Patate e Pomodori al Forno \ Mussels baked with potatoes and tomatoes
It is common to serve potatoes with fish in Venice. This dish is both colorful and flavorful. Enjoy with a Pinot Grigio wine.
3 pounds fresh mussels cup parmigiano
1 pound baking potatoes Black pepper in a grinder
6 tbsp. garlic oil 10 ounces fresh plum tomatoes
3 tbsp. bruschetta mix
1 tbsp. garlic
cup panko
1. Soak mussels in sink and clean. Scrub and remove fibers.
2. Place mussels in a tightly lidded pot without water and turn on the heat to medium high. As soon as the shells open, drain and set aside to cool. When they have cool off, detach and place in a bowl. Add 3 tbs. of oil, the chopped parsley, chopped garlic and 2 tbsp. of the Panko.
3. Turn oven to 450.
4. Wash the potatoes and boil them with their skins. When ready, allow to cool.
5. Wash the tomatoes and cut them in half lengthwise and into inch wide strips. Allow them to drain in a colander.
6. Cut the potatoes into inch slices.
7. In a 13x9 Pyrex dish, coat with olive oil. Cover with potatoes first. Sprinkle with some sort of herb salt.
Add mussels to cover the potatoes and add all seasoning left in bowl. Top with the tomato strips. Sprinkle with the rest of the Panko and grated cheese. Pour over remaining olive oil.
8.Bake on the top shelf for 15 minutes. Remove and allow to settle before serving.
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Spinaci e Ceci Spinach and Chick Peas
This dish exemplifies the cuisine of the Jewish population of Venice. The core of this cuisines stems back from the Mediterranean coasts bordering Israel and even Northern Africa. The marriage of spinach and chick peas with an added taste of lemon and oil, is simple, yet robust. Enjoy it as a side to the mussels.
1 pounds fresh spinach
Lemon salt
19 ounce can of chick pea, rinsed and drained
cup Sicilian Lemon Oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1. Wash the spinach. Place in a pot with 2 tbsp of salt. Do not add any additional water. The spinach will steam with the water clinging to the leaves. Cover and cook over medium heat until stems are soft.
2. Place spinach, chick peas, olive oil and lmon juice in a saucepan, cover and cook over medium heat. Taste and serve.
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Insalata di limone, cetriolo e peperone \ Lemon, Cucumber and pepper salad
The only fruits used in Italian Salads are lemons or oranges because of their citric tartness. The refreshing coolness of both the taste and the colors, make it a great finish to any fish dish.
2-3 lemons
Lemon Salt
2 English cucumbers
Unfiltered oil
Black pepper from a grinder
1 tbsp. chopped parsley
1. Wash lemons and slice very thin with a mandolin. Put slices in bowl and sprinkle with salt. Cut the red bell pepper lengthwise into long strips. Remove seeds and core. Using a mandolin, slice the cucumber.
2. When ready to serve, assemble the cucumbers in a shallow bowl or tray. Drain the lemon and put the slices on top to the cucumbers. Repeat the procedure with the peppers. Sprinkle with olive oil, pouring in s thin stream. Add few grinding of pepper and garnish with parsley. Enjoy.
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